Where I left off in my last post, the oil pan was not installed and the accessory drive was incomplete. I’ve fixed that…and a few other things
This is the V8Roadsters aluminum oil pan. A rear sump pan is necessary for this swap, and the front of the pan must be shallow enough to clear the steering rack. The V8R pan is made specifically for this swap and meets that criteria. Additionally, the V8R pan is baffled with trap doors to prevent oil starvation–a tremendous plus for car that sees track time. This model has provisions for an oil filter to screw on, which eliminates the need for an external filter and the additional complexity that a remote filter setup adds. This pan comes with an oil pickup tube and has just enough clearance to accommodate an unmodified GTO windage tray.
I took the pan apart prior to installation and cleaned it thoroughly. I also removed the inspection stickers which resided on the inside.
This nifty product by Improved Racing is an oil thermostat that bolts directly to the oil pan. A thermostat ensures that the oil quickly reaches a suitable operating temperature, and diverts flow to the oil cooler once that threshold has been reached.
Some swappers have reported heat related woes that can be ameliorated by protecting prone components from radiant heat, which comes off of the headers and exhaust pipes. Two known problems are difficulty with starting and melted motor mounts. My headers are ceramic coated, which will help greatly, however I’ve made shields anyway in the name of reliability.
This shield protects the starter from the flange area on the header and from the exhaust pipe that runs beneath.
The passenger side motor mount is in close proximity to the headers so a shield with good coverage was made.
The top of the drivers side mount is the only part which appears to be vulnerable. Rather than making a full heat shield for this side, I cleaned the top of the mount with acetone and applied some adhesive-backed reflective thermal barrier.
The bottom of the flywheel was exposed to the elements. I made an aluminum panel which bolts on and covers the opening.
Lines to the clutch slave cylinder needed to be installed. The line on the bottom runs to the clutch master cylinder and the line on top is a remote bleeder, which allows the clutch to be bled with the drivetrain installed in the vehicle.
The top line simply screws in, while the bottom line is held in with a pin which needs to be hammered in.
I’ve shown my custom alternator bracket in this post: http://www.cgbagne.com/theturtlebuild/?p=264. Still in need of completion at that point were a tensioner and an idler pulley. The tensioner consists of two rod ends, two bolts, and a couple of nuts.
This is the idler pulley mount, simple and strong.
This is the finished product, with a 50″ belt.
And now the drivetrain is ready to be dropped in!