In stock form, the hood is held down by a cable actuated latch that bolts to the core support–just like any other car. That mechanism has clear advantages on a production vehicle, however my priorities differ from those of the OEM engineers. I am after security, lightness, simplicity, and serviceability.
-The snap-ring pins or cotter pins that aftermarket hood pin setups come with have been tested and proven. So have OEM hood latches. With regard to this facet, neither the OEM latch nor a set of hood pins has a significant advantage.
-The OEM mechanism is heavy and complex compared to a set of hood pins. The core support that the OEM latch mounts to also has mass.
-Having the OEM core support hinders my ability to remove and reinstall the drivetrain. The core support would also make servicing the engine, while it’s in the car, more difficult. To streamline the installation and removal of the drivetrain, I removed the core support and anything else that was in the way via a cutoff wheel and sawmill.
I elected to use hood pins, and I made custom mounts to support them. The mounts that I made are light weight and are bolted in as opposed to welded so that they can be removed when they are in the way. When I say in the way, I mean preventing the removal of the radiator(I may be able to revise the sway bar mounts to overcome this), and the removal of the drivetrain.
The mounts are relatively simple, so without further ado, here are some photos:
The mounts themselves consist of: 1/8″ steel plate for the bases, 1/16″ tubing for the arms, and formed sheet metal for the pin attachment points.
Note the gap between the hood and the bumper. I found that such a gap can be made by loosening the hood-hinge bolts and sliding the hood back. This gap is desirable, for me at least, because air will be evacuated from the engine bay via the gap. Air accelerates as it passes over that curved region of the car, resulting in lower pressure–essentially an application of Bernoulli’s principle. The air in the engine bay(relatively high pressure) will want to reach equilibrium with the air over the gap(relatively low pressure), so air will be flow out through the gap, and the pressure differential across the radiator will be greater than it otherwise would be. Radiators work when air is flowing through the fins, and air is forced through the fins when a pressure differential is present. The effectiveness of this is dependent on how well the radiator is ducted to the “mouth” of the front bumper.