I added excessive clearance to the transmission tunnel with the BFH(big fu-riendly hammer). That ended up interfering with the movement of the gas pedal. Rather than breaking out the BFH again, and beating the offending part of the tunnel back in, I removed the afflicted portions of the tunnel on both sides. That way I’ll have fresh metal that hasn’t been fatigued by heat and lots of pounding. This was another home for the weekend sort of task, and still needs to be completed. The next step is to take out the engine and transmission so that I can finish the welding(both inside and out) and make it look pretty with the grinder. I’ll do that once I bolt in the trans crossmember, figure out how I’m going to route the fuel lines and wires, and complete any other little tasks that require the engine to be in that it’ll only have to come out once more before the final installation.
Metal peeled back to clear the larger t56 bell housing.
A quick cardboard mock-up to get a rough idea of the shape.
Substitute the cardboard for steel.
The piece has two bends in it to provide additional clearance for the go pedal and my feet.
I did the bending with my Harbor Freight metal brake. This thing is great for smaller tasks.
Both sides are mostly welded in. This is the point where I ran out of time. Don’t mind the ugly welds. They’ll be ground down and made to look pretty since this car won’t have carpet.
Oh, and fun fact. These aren’t the pedals that I’m going to be using.
The wiper motor was like a large malignant tumor on my otherwise healthy firewall. That, and I knew a better place for it. A place that would put a little bit of weight a little bit further back. I needed to operate…stat.
Relocating the wiper motor involved cutting out the section of firewall that the motor mounted to and relocating it to the bottom of the cowl. That way, the motor itself is safely tucked away in the interior, and the arm goes into the cowl area so that the arm can still actuate the rod, which actuates the much larger arm that cleans the window. I traced the mounting plate onto the cowl, where I wanted it. I cut that area out and spot welded the motor mounting plate in. I also spot welded a patch into the gaping hole that I created in the firewall. The actuator rod had to be cut, sectioned, and welded so that both ends would properly meet up to the motor and wiper arm. Most of it is only held in with spot welds at this point. I’ll finish this next time I’m home, and update with some new photos. In the end, it should look and function as though my new location was the factory location.
One concern is that this could be a potential ingress point for water. The motor shaft enters the cowl though a hole in an elevated portion of the motor mount plate. Gravity won’t help water get in. The motor also has a rubber seal that seals against the area surrounding the shaft hole. That’ll further prevent water from entering. The relocation negligibly changes the geometry of the wiper system. Components will be stressed no more than they were in the factory configuration. Adjustment of starting position and sweep can be carried out through unbolting the motor arm from the motor shaft and from unbolting the wiper arm from its pivot. Each can be individually adjusted via rotation until desirable operation is achieved.
The sight of motor makes me cringe!
So I evicted motor from its home.
Motor is still a vagrant, but has been reunited with its surface.
Wiper motor has a new home, and it’s quite an upgrade. Motor should be pleased.
Firewall has been patched up and is on the road to recovery.
The actuator rod had to be shortened and twisted to work with this change. I measured, cut it with an angle grinder, cleaned the surfaces, welded it back together, and gave it a nice coat of black paint. The only criteria for the length is that it be such that the motor can make a full revolution without the wiper arm pivot hitting its hard stops.
Edit: Here is another progress photo–a little further along now.
I borrowed another engine puller from another guy(thanks Carlos) this morning and the engine went in not too long after. Cutting the front off helped immensely and allowed the engine and trans to go in together. After I installed the crossmember, it was a matter of getting the slightly cumbersome engine and transmission assembly lined up and bolted in. Obviously, this isn’t the final installation of the engine. It’s in so that I can rebuild the transmission tunnel with proper clearance for the bell housing. I’ll also figure out where the wiring and fuel lines will need to be run so that I can install those later on, when the engine is out, and actually do a good job of it. The V8Roadsters frame rails and transmission crossmember still need to be bolted in. I’m waiting on that, or at least on the crossmember, until I get the rear end in so that I can ensure that everything is straight and properly aligned.
Engine and trans, suspended by seatbelt webbing.
The crossmember is in, and part of the front fell off. Good start.
A box of seatbelt webbing, courtesy of the guy who I borrowed the hoist from. It’s convenient for holding the engine and trans up, particularly since my engine is missing one of the lift hooks.
My angle grinder couldn’t cut deep enough to remove the front. The front had to come off, so Pat came with a sawzall and did some work. He also helped me get the engine lined up and bolted in. Thanks Pat.
It’s in. Hooray.
Yep, still there.
Oh yeah, I still don’t have the right oil pan. I removed the GTO oil pan, which doesn’t clear the crossmember, and used the gasket to hold some plastic tarp material in place. Good enough to keep crud out until I get my oil pan situation straightened out.
After much waiting, my swap kit is here. I could talk about it, or I could post photos. I prefer to do the latter.
Boxes of V8R and other parts.
One of the frame rail braces.
Heavy duty axles and hubs.
The hubs and ARP wheel studs.
Some nice wheel bearings for those fancy hubs
A larger Wilwood master cylinder to appropriately serve the larger T56 slave cylinder.
Getrag diff mount.
Not part of the swap kit, but this is some fancy frame rail sealer that I sprayed into the strut tops, which I boxed, so that the insides won’t rust. Eastwood makes good stuff, so I should be in good shape.